CogPairTire pressure, gear ratios, and what actually fits your drivetrain.

Tire Pressure

Pressure by rider weight, tire width and surface — not by the number on the sidewall.

The number molded into a bicycle tire sidewall is a maximum, not a recommendation. Riding at it is the most common reason a good bike feels harsh.

The figure that matters is tire drop — how far the tire compresses under load. About 15% is the target, and it comes from Frank Berto's testing, published through Jan Heine in Bicycle Quarterly. It balances rolling resistance, grip and comfort better than any single pressure ever could.

Pressure scales with load and collapses with width

A 25 mm tire under a given load wants roughly three times the pressure of a 47 mm tire carrying the same weight. Which is why fitting wider tires and keeping the old pressure makes a bike feel worse rather than better — and why so many people conclude wide tires are slow after trying exactly that.

Higher is not faster, and this took decades to accept

Above a certain pressure, rolling resistance on real road surfaces goes back up. The tire stops absorbing small irregularities and starts lifting the whole bike and rider over them instead, and that energy comes from your legs.

Smooth steel drums in a laboratory say otherwise. Roads are not smooth steel drums.

Front and rear are different

Weight distribution on a road bike runs roughly 40/60 front to rear. Running identical pressure at both ends means one of them is wrong; the rear wants about 10% more.

Where the model here stops

The curve is calibrated in the 23–45 mm range where the underlying data lives. It drifts at mountain-bike widths, where casing construction and rim width matter more than width alone captures. Treat any calculated figure as a starting point and adjust by feel over a few rides — tire pressure is one of the few settings where your own judgement genuinely beats a number.

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